Rigatoni Alla Zozzona

Updated May 31, 2023

Rigatoni Alla Zozzona
Ryan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Victoria Granof.
Total Time
30 minutes
Rating
4(4,703)
Comments
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Rigatoni alla zozzona combines the ingredients of the four pasta dishes for which Romans are famous: amatriciana, cacio e pepe, carbonara and gricia. While many Italian meals are typically the result of simple flavors — “neat” preparations where only a few ingredients shine — rigatoni alla zozzona (which loosely translates to a big mess) is more of a kitchen sink approach, marrying the ingredients of the four pastas (tomato sauce, black pepper, egg yolks, cheese and guanciale) with sausage. Rigatoni’s sturdy tube shape provides the perfect vehicle to carry — and stand up to — the many components of the sauce.

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Ingredients

Yield:4 to 6 servings 
  • Kosher salt
  • 1pound large rigatoni
  • 2teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil 
  • 4ounces guanciale (or pancetta), cut into 2-inch matchsticks
  • 1small yellow onion, minced
  • 1pound hot or sweet Italian sausages (about 4 to 5 sausages), casings removed 
  • 2tablespoons tomato paste
  • 3cups cherry tomatoes (about 12 ounces)
  • 1cup red wine
  • 4egg yolks
  • ¼cup grated Pecorino Romano, plus more to taste
  • 1teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

568 calories; 19 grams fat; 6 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 8 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 64 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams dietary fiber; 5 grams sugars; 27 grams protein; 687 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Once the water comes to a boil, cook the pasta according to package directions until al dente. Reserve ¼ cup of pasta water, then drain pasta.

  2. Step 2

    Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: Add the olive oil to a deep, large skillet and heat over medium-low. Add the guanciale in an even layer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the strips start to crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove guanciale to a small dish and set aside. Transfer the pan drippings to a small bowl, leaving about 1 tablespoon in the skillet.

  3. Step 3

    Increase heat to medium-high and stir the onion into the pan drippings, allowing it to soften, about 1 minute. Add the sausage and 1 teaspoon salt and break up the meat into small pieces. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sausage has browned, about 5 minutes.

  4. Step 4

    Stir in the tomato paste, then the cherry tomatoes. Decrease heat to medium and stir in the wine. Cover the sauce with a lid and cook for 5 minutes.

  5. Step 5

    Remove the lid and, using the back of a spoon, break up the tomatoes and incorporate them into the sauce. Allow the sauce to cook, uncovered, for 5 more minutes.

  6. Step 6

    In a small bowl, combine the egg yolks, ¼ cup cheese, the pepper and 1 tablespoon of the reserved guanciale drippings.

  7. Step 7

    Add the pasta and guanciale to the simmering sauce and stir to coat.

  8. Step 8

    Stir 2 tablespoons of the pasta water into the egg mixture. Turn off the heat and stir the egg mixture into the pasta until coated and glossy, adding 2 tablespoons more pasta water if needed. Transfer the pasta to a serving dish and top with additional cheese, if desired.

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Ratings

4 out of 5
4,703 user ratings
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Comments

In the history of Italy no cook has ever removed guanciale fat from a pan. That’s the sauce!

I made mine with a side of statins. Delicious!

We followed the recipe as is but when making it again would add more tomatoes. The sauce is very rich and would benefit, we think, from more acid from more tomatoes. I would also simply add canned diced tomatoes; the cherry tomatoes left their skins behind.

I was on the fence about making this so I read the reviews - which were mostly positive. I was not disappointed - this dish is a winner! The entire family loved it. I pretty much made it as is- but I started the pasta cooking while the sauce was simmering and I did use fire roasted tomatoes from a can. This will go into the rotation for sure!

I made this as directed and would make it again way. The only change I made is now I cooked the rigatoni. You don't need to finally boil the pasta in gallons of water. A great many science-based food writers have pointed including Serious Eats, Alton Brown, and Harold McGee. Barely cover with cold salte water and simmer. It's easier to get uniformly cooked pasta, especially with rigatoni which can tear cooked the usual way, and you get super starchy water which is helpful for emulsification

Okay so here’s the deal. It’s good. I read the comments prior to cooking and decided to use 28oz can of crushed tomatoes and an extra half cup of wine. All in all it came out tasty. However, for all the delicious ingredients throughout this dish it really seemed to lack depth and any complexity really. Perhaps my expectations were unrealistic, or perhaps it was user error :)

Former cook here: Try the tomato paste next time and you will find the flavor more intense. 28 oz of tomatoes and more wine carries too much liquid and dilutes the ingredients. Just a suggestion.

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