Edna Lewis’s Busy Day Cake

Updated May 1, 2026

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55 min
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“A busy day cake, or sweet bread as it was really called, was regular cake batter, measured out and stirred in a hurry while vegetables cooked on one end of the wood stove,” writes Edna Lewis in her 1976 cookbook and farm-to-table manifesto, “The Taste of Country Cooking.” Slightly sweet and crumbly, this cake, adapted from the 50th anniversary edition of her cookbook (Knopf, 2026), comes together quickly and is a great backpocket recipe for a simple dessert that can be adorned with any seasonal fruit compote, Ms. Lewis’s brandied peaches or even sweetened whipped cream. The cake has a beautiful rise but may sink a bit in the middle; that’s just part of its humble charm. 

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Ingredients

Yield:8 to 10 servings
  • Unsalted butter, at room temperature, for the pan

  • All-purpose flour, for the pan

  • 8 tablespoons/113 grams unsalted butter, at room temperature 

  • 1½ cups/300 grams granulated sugar 

  • 3 large eggs

  • 2 cups/255 grams all-purpose flour, sifted 

  • ½ cup whole milk, at room temperature 

  • 4 teaspoons baking powder (see Tip)

  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 

  • ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, such as Diamond Crystal 

  • Light grating of nutmeg

Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat oven to 375 degrees. Butter and flour the bottom of an 8-by-8-inch cake pan.

  2. Step 2

    In a large bowl, blend the butter and sugar by hand using a wooden spoon, until the color of the butter has lightened and the mixture is fluffy. This will take several minutes. Add in eggs one by one, mixing each in until it’s fully incorporated. Add in ½ cup of flour and ¼ cup of milk together and mix well. Repeat with another ½ cup flour and the remaining ¼ cup milk, incorporating well, then stir in the remaining 1 cup flour.

  3. Step 3

    In a large bowl, blend the butter and sugar by hand using a wooden spoon, until the color of the butter has lightened and the mixture is fluffy. This will take several minutes. Add in eggs one by one, mixing each in until it’s fully incorporated. Add in ½ cup of flour and ¼ cup of milk together and mix well. Repeat with another ½ cup flour and the remaining ¼ cup milk, incorporating well, then stir in the remaining 1 cup flour.

  4. Step 4

    Add baking powder, vanilla, salt and nutmeg and mix well. 

  5. Step 5

    Spoon batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 40 minutes, until a toothpick or knife inserted comes out clean. 

  6. Step 6

    Let cool slightly in the pan, about 15 minutes. Cut into squares and serve warm. 

Tip
  • Edna Lewis famously advised against baking with commercial double-acting baking powder because she found the ones on the market in the 1970’s to have a "bitter aftertaste.” If you like, seek out non-aluminum double-acting baking powder (such as Bob’s Red Mill), or make your own: Combine 2 tablespoons cream of tartar with 1 tablespoon baking soda, and then measure out 4 teaspoons for the recipe and proceed as instructed.

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Step 3 is a repetition of step 2.

I just made this cake a few hours ago, I like the crumb a lot. It might seem like a lot of sugar but it is just fine. I think I put a bit too much nutmeg and the aroma is a bit overwhelming but pairing it with coffee or tea would help to dissuade the aroma. Overall is not bad but I guess that for the time and amount of ingredients is perfect if you, quite literally, don't have much time and don't wanna use many utensils and machinery.

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Credits

Adapted from “The Taste of Country Cooking: 50th Anniversary Edition,” by Edna Lewis (Knopf, 2026)

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