Porcini Ragù

Preparation

1. Step 1

   In a medium bowl, cover the mushrooms with boiling water and let soak for 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 5 tablespoons of the soaking liquid. Very finely chop the mushrooms, aiming to mimic the consistency of ground meat, then set aside. Heat a medium pot of salted water to a boil.

2. Step 2

   Put the oil, garlic, crushed red pepper, parsley and heaping ¼ teaspoon salt into a cold, large sauté pan over medium-low heat. Very gently fry for 5 minutes until soft and lightly golden, turning the heat down if the garlic starts to brown.

3. Step 3

   Increase the heat to medium-high, then add the chopped mushrooms, tomato paste and plenty of freshly ground black pepper (about 50 twists, 1 to 1½ teaspoons). Stir-fry for 3 minutes, then set the pan aside while you boil the pasta.

4. Step 4

   Cook the pasta in the salted boiling water according to package directions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1¾ cups of the pasta water.

5. Step 5

   Return the sauté pan with the mushroom mixture to medium-high heat, then stir in 1½ cups of the reserved pasta water plus the reserved porcini soaking liquid. Bring to a simmer. Once simmering, let it bubble away for 3 minutes.

6. Step 6

   Add half the Parmesan, stirring until it has melted before adding the rest. Lower the heat to medium, then stir in the cream, followed by the drained tagliatelle. Toss over the heat until the pasta and sauce have emulsified, 1 to 2 minutes, adding a splash more pasta water if the pasta looks dry.

7. Step 7

   Remove from the heat and serve at once, finished with as much olive oil and Parmesan as your heart desires, plus a sprinkling of parsley.