Crusty Dinner Rolls

Updated May 14, 2025

Crusty Dinner Rolls
Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Eleni Pappas.
Total Time
About 6 hours
Prep Time
5 minutes
Cook Time
5¾ hours
Rating
4(65)
Comments
Read comments

These hearty, lightly fermented rolls, made fresh every Tuesday to Saturday at Eulalie restaurant in New York City, are a joy to bake, and surprisingly easy. The chef Chip Smith starts the dough at 10 a.m. and bakes them by 5 p.m. to serve at dinner. All you need are a few brief moments of active work, plus time for the dough to rise three times for soft interiors — aided by the addition of cake flour — and a wonderful crust that blisters like a good baguette. —Eric Kim

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Ingredients

Yield:12 rolls
  • ½teaspoon/2 grams active dry yeast
  • 1⅓cups/300 grams warm water (100 to 110 degrees)
  • 2⅓cups/313 grams all-purpose flour
  • cups/200 grams cake flour or more all-purpose flour
  • 2teaspoons/10 grams coarse kosher salt or 1½ teaspoons fine sea salt
  • Nonstick cooking spray or vegetable oil
  • 1large egg
  • Softened butter, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (12 servings)

176 calories; 2 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 1 gram monounsaturated fat; 0 grams polyunsaturated fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 0 grams sugars; 5 grams protein; 172 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, stir the yeast and water to combine. Add both flours and the salt. Mix on low speed until a shaggy ball forms, about 5 minutes. Scrape the dough off the hook, remove the hook and cover the bowl with a clean, damp kitchen towel. Let the dough rest to hydrate for 20 minutes.

  2. Step 2

    Uncover the dough, reattach the hook and knead on medium-low speed until smooth, elastic and no longer sticking to the sides of the bowl, 8 to 10 minutes, scraping the dough off the hook and sides of the bowl as needed.

  3. Step 3

    Lightly grease another large bowl with cooking spray or oil. Transfer the dough to the bowl. Cover with the towel, then with a sheet pan to keep the dough moist. Let proof in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in size, about 2 hours.

  4. Step 4

    Fold the dough in half over itself in the bowl a few times to deflate it slightly, then cover the bowl with the towel, then sheet pan, and let proof in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in size again, about 1½ hours.

  5. Step 5

    Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Scrape the dough out onto a clean work surface. Using a bench scraper or knife, portion the dough evenly into 12 (2-inch) pieces (each about 65 grams). To shape the dough into balls, think of your hand as a cage for the dough, so it can roll in place. Bend your fingers like a claw and cage a piece of dough by setting your claw over it and keeping the tips of your fingers and the edge of your hand against the work surface. Move your hand in a circular motion to roll the dough into a smooth, taut ball with a small belly button on the bottom. Place on the prepared pan. Repeat with the remaining pieces, spacing the balls 2 inches apart on the pan.

  6. Step 6

    Loosely cover the pan with greased plastic wrap and place in a warm, draft-free place, such as the oven. Be sure the heat is off. Proof one last time until doubled in size, 1 hour to 1½ hours.

  7. Step 7

    When ready to bake, take the pan out of the oven. Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 450 degrees. In a small bowl, beat the egg with a splash of water to form an egg wash. Gently brush each dough ball with the egg wash. Lightly score the tops by slashing them with a single stroke of a sharp knife or blade.

  8. Step 8

    Bake the rolls until golden brown and the interiors reach at least 200 degrees, rotating the pan halfway through, about 20 minutes. Enjoy warm with butter.

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Ratings

4 out of 5
65 user ratings
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Comments

@Cauliflower 105 g all purpose flour 14 g cornstarch for each cup of flour for those wondering

They will get crusty and then will soften after they cool. To re-crisp, heat the oven to 400F and put the rolls back in for just 3-4 minutes.

I learned how to bake bread in Adult Ed class when I was still in my twenties. Much older now. We did not have stand mixers at our disposal. All you need is a Pyrex bowl and a wooden spoon. Mix up the ingredients and knead by hand until the dough is elastic and tacky but not sticky. If too sticky gradually add a little flour. You’ll probably need about a good 15 minutes to knead by hand. Then, just follow the rest of the instructions. Great rolls, minimal cost.

This was my first time baking dinner rolls and I had higher expectations. the cake flour seemed to make it denser, and there was so little yeast in the recipe! also, very little flavor. I might mix in rosemary and top with parmesean before baking next yime.

These rolls were beautiful domes on the tray but gradually collapsed. Like a flattened cake. I followed the instructions precisely. Has anyone used a muffin pan setup for these rolls? Something to give them some support? Thank you.

I tried this recipe yesterday and it was worse than store bought rolls! Heavy and definitely not crusty! I should have listened to the other reviews and not wasted all day prepping the dough! Moving on…

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