Thick Backyard Burgers

By J. Kenji López-Alt

Updated July 29, 2025

  • Three burgers on a cutting board topped with cheese, onion, lettuce and tomato.
    Ryan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Media 1 of 2
Total Time
40 minutes
Prep Time
10 minutes
Cook Time
30 minutes
Rating
5(82)
Comments
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The key to the best backyard burgers is using freshly ground beef with around 20 percent fat content. Handling the beef as little as possible — just enough that the patties don’t fall apart on the grill — optimizes texture, delivering juicy, tender patties loaded with pockets of rendered juices and fat. Rather than lifting the meat into my hands, it can be helpful to shape patties on a sheet of parchment paper to minimize handling.

Featured in: 4 Rules for Better Burgers

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Ingredients

Yield:4 burgers

  • 1 ½ pounds freshly ground beef, at least 20 percent fat

  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

  • Oil, for greasing grates

  • 4 to 8 slices cheese of your choice

  • 4 soft hamburger buns

  • Toppings and condiments, as desired

Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Place the beef on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet and divide it into 4 even piles. Without lifting the meat, gently shape it into 4 patties, each about ½ inch wider than the burger buns, pressing them just enough to make them hold together. Do not overwork them. Make a shallow indentation in the center of each patty to prevent bulging as they cook.

  2. Step 2

    Season the top side generously with salt and pepper. Use a thin metal spatula to flip the patties and season the second side, then refrigerate until ready to grill.

  3. Step 3

    Light a full chimney of charcoal. Once the coals are fully lit and covered with gray ash, spread them evenly over one side of the coal grate. (For gas grills, set half of the burners to high heat.) Set the cooking grate in place, cover the grill, and heat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil the grate.

  4. Step 4

    Place the patties directly over the hot side of the grill. Cover with vents open and cook, rotating as needed, until well charred and the centers reach 110 degrees, about 5 minutes. Flip the burger, add cheese and cover again. Continue cooking until the cheese is melted and the burgers reach 125 degrees for medium-rare or 135 degrees for medium, about 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer to a plate to rest.

  5. Step 5

    If the burgers are dripping too much fat onto the coals and get engulfed in flames at any point, either slide them over to the cooler side of the grill, or, if using a charcoal grill, cover the grill with the lid to snuff the flames (this will not work on a gas grill, which is designed to vent even when the lid is closed).

  6. Step 6

    Toast the buns over the center of the grill until golden and warmed through. Assemble the burgers with your desired toppings, place in buns and serve immediately.

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Ratings

5 out of 5
82 user ratings
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Comments

Jay Gould

Sirloin is way too lean (7-10 percent fat) to make a juicy burger. Ground chuck is much better (15-20 percent fat). Personally, I have my beef custom ground at my local butcher from a blend of short rib, chuck, and brisket point (not the flat) coarsly ground which yields a +/- 25 percent fat patty.

Judith Siller-Levy

The most important thing with making the “perfect burger“ is how you construct it after it’s done. Very important to give it a little rest while you’re adding the condiments. I prefer putting my lettuce on the bottom underneath the burger to keep the burger from making the bottom bun too soggy. After that… Build away to your heart’s content.

Neal Miller Black

Disagree. Food often is about context. And here in the north woods of Minnesota a burger on the outdoor grill (I cook only with charcoal) is preferable to anything cooked on a skillet. Don't get me wrong, I understand the benefits of cooking indoors on the skillet (especially burgers) ... But in summer, especially when it's hot (no A/C here) a well-prepared burger (with some brats) on a grill smells and tastes amazing. Mine definitely will be way better after reading/watching this.

Nancy

We can be way too precious about how to make a hamburger on the grill. My personal opinion is fresh hamburger meat with about 20% fat is best and we don’t have to dance around with seasonings and whether to touch it beforehand. Any hamburger as long as it’s fresh. I went to the business Costco and got 10 pounds of the 80% and froze it fresh. (it all comes to the store shipped in those tubes anyway no matter where you get it. ) The first batch is the best and the rest is acceptable. And I use a Weber charcoal grill because I always have. In the winter, I cook it on the stove with a pan. Not as good but OK. As my mother-in-law did I cut potatoes up like french fries and sauté them with the burger although the potatoes do take longer. The main thing is not to get too wound up on the importance of what you’re doing.

Jim

If you use a leaner ground beef you can fold in some shredded cheddar cheese to add moisture without the grease.

ABC

Yes!!! A thick burger with a juicy hot pink center is everything. I personal HATE the smashburger fad.

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