St. Valentine

Port is one of David Wondrich's favorite cocktail ingredients, along with sherry. “One of the easiest ways to come up with new cocktails is simple substitution, port for vermouth, for example," he said. "Equivalent proof, but new textures and flavors.” By port, Mr. Wondrich means ruby port, a simpler, fruity, more accessible cousin of vintage port, and a blend of several vintages. Years ago Mr. Wondrich invented the St. Valentine, a blend of ruby port, white rum, Grand Marnier and lime juice that has a wonderfully ripe, round, punchlike refreshing quality. He reserves tawny ports for things like variations on the manhattan. —Eric Asimov