Csülkös Bableves (Creamy Ham and Bean Soup)

Updated April 19, 2024

Csülkös Bableves (Creamy Ham and Bean Soup)
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Cyd Raftus McDowell.
Total Time
2 hours 35 minutes, plus overnight soaking
Prep Time
10 minutes, plus overnight soaking
Cook Time
2 hours 25 minutes
Rating
5(270)
Comments
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Of the many bean soups in Hungary, two prominent ones include this creamy ham-and-bean soup, thickened with a roux of fat, flour and paprika, and babgulyás, with a rich, paprika-hued broth akin to gulyás (known in America as goulash). Though every region’s recipes have their nuances, csülkös bableves is always satisfying. Its flavor relies on smoked pork, though the bulk of the soup is made with cost-friendly beans, onion, celery and carrots. Most versions call for dried pinto or cranberry beans, which turn creamy and rich when slow simmered, but any similar dried bean may be used. Hungary is a pork-producing country where lard would have once been the fat used for the roux, but this version can be made with olive oil and bacon for added smokiness. Using smoked paprika as the garnish on the finished soup also amps up the flavor. 

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Ingredients

Yield:6 to 8 servings
  • 4tablespoons olive oil (or canola oil)
  • 2strips bacon, chopped (optional)
  • 1yellow onion, finely chopped 
  • 1large celery stalk, finely chopped
  • 4medium carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 5garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 1pound dried pinto beans or cranberry beans, soaked overnight and drained (see Tip)
  • 1large smoked ham hock (about 1 pound), at room temperature
  • 2dried bay leaves 
  • ¼ cup all-purpose flour
  • Salt and black pepper
  • 2teaspoons sweet Hungarian paprika, plus more for garnish
  • 1teaspoon smoked paprika, plus more for garnish  
  • ½ cup sour cream, plus more for serving  
  • Roughly chopped fresh parsley, for serving 
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (8 servings)

424 calories; 15 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 8 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 50 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams dietary fiber; 4 grams sugars; 25 grams protein; 606 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a 6-quart stock pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the bacon, if using, and cook to render the fat and create a smoky flavor, about 2 minutes. Add the onion, celery and carrot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden, 8 to 10 minutes, adding the garlic halfway through.

  2. Step 2

    Add the drained beans, ham hock, bay leaves, 12 cups water and 1 teaspoon salt; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium; cook, partially covered, until beans are very tender, about 2 hours, skimming away any foam off the top with a shallow ladle.

  3. Step 3

    Transfer the ham hock to a cutting board and cool slightly; discard bones and excess skin. Chop or shred the meat and return to the soup. (Ham hock will yield very little pork; it’s mostly there to flavor the soup.)

  4. Step 4

    Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a 2-quart saucepan over medium. Whisk in flour to create a paste; cook, stirring, to toast the flour and brown slightly, 2 minutes. Whisk in sweet and smoked paprikas and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Whisk in sour cream and 2 tablespoons water to make a loose paste. Ladle a small amount of bean cooking liquid (⅓ to ½ cup) into the sour cream mixture, whisking until smooth.

  5. Step 5

    Push the beans and pork to the side and whisk the sour-cream mixture into the soup until no lumps remain.

  6. Step 6

    Bring the soup back to a boil and stir until the sour cream mixture is dissolved and the soup slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Taste and add more salt if you’d like. This is best enjoyed when the beans hold their shape, so don’t stir too much. Ladle the soup into serving bowls; sprinkle with sweet or smoked paprika, parsley and a dollop of sour cream if desired. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or in the freezer for up to 3 weeks.

Tips
  • If you’re short on time, rinse the beans and set the dry beans in a large bowl. Add enough boiling water to cover (from a pot or kettle) and season the water generously with salt. Set aside to soak for 30 minutes, adding more (cold or warm tap) water to keep the beans covered at all times. (Drain before using.)
  • If you can’t find a smoked ham hock where you live, use 1 ½ pounds pork shank (osso bucco), at room temperature, instead, seasoning well before use. This will yield a bit more meat.

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Ratings

5 out of 5
270 user ratings
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Comments

Wow, it's so exciting to see a Hungarian recipe featured in the New York Times! Thank you Sarah Copeland for sharing this recipe – it takes me right back to Hungary to my own grandmother's kitchen! I can’t wait to try making it at home! Köszönöm

A lovely, savory and soup. To simplify; I used canned Great Northern Beans with liquid (arguably better), rough chopped ham leftover from a bone-in roast (use a little of the ham fat too), and 4 slices hickory smoke bacon. My family scraped the pot and requested I make it again it again. And I shall.

I am working on a cookbook of my mom’s Hungarian recipes. Her traditional bean soup became Americanized and she would just go to the honeybaked ham store and make their soup kit. When she passed, I couldn’t find her original recipe. And yesterday found this recipe- OMG. It’s perfect!!! I used traditional Hungarian bacon, and had good paprika, hot/smoky and sweet. Can’t wait to make it again!!!

I suggest a larger ham hock. I used 1.75lb. Lots of meat for the soup!

Made this yesterday. Only variation was that I used the end of the Honey Backed Ham from New Year’s and part of my paprika was Hungarian Hot Paprika (used sweet and a bit of smoked, too). Wanted to bring to my 82 year old parent’s. Dad is Hungarian. Woke up to a text from my 14 year old at 0615, “Can I have the bean soup for breakfast?” He loved it that much! It was fantastic! SO flavorful!

I made this on a rainy Sunday at the end of holiday break and wow, it was wonderful. I did the quick soak for pinto beans, drained, and then went with 10 cups of water instead of 12, per the notes. Used a 1.5 pound ham hock and it yielded excellent flavor and a fair amount of pork. Couldn’t believe how creamy and tasty it all was. My Hungarian-American hubby is already asking when I’ll make it again. Thanks for this recipe!

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