Bacon Scallion Cream Sauce

Here we have a re-education — or an education, if you're a first-timer — in the virtues of an old-fashioned cream gravy. A few tablespoons of this elixir can uplift plainly cooked meat like a lamb chop or steak, layering on the richness of cream but also the freshness of scallion and black pepper. Use plenty of each.

These days, home cooks are not likely to keep meat drippings around in the kitchen to make a fat-and-flour roux, but there's nothing wrong with hacking a substitute from a lump of butter and a slab of bacon. Then cook them together with flour to make a golden, toasty-smelling roux. After adding the broth and cream, the sauce will seem thin, but stay the course: don't even think of adding more flour. It takes a few minutes for the flour's starch to absorb the liquid. Take the gravy off the heat when it still seems a little too thin: it will thicken further at the table. —Julia Moskin