Fruit, Poached and Marinated

Fruit compotes make great compromise desserts; they’re sweet, but not as sweet as sorbets, and like sorbets they don’t require flour, butter or pastry skills. I didn’t develop any kind of knack for pastry until I began collaborating with pastry chefs on their cookbooks, but for years I managed to round out my dinner parties with fruit-based desserts(though the children of my friend Clifford Wright used to roll their eyes when I brought dessert – “She doesn’t bring dessert, she brings fruit,” they’d say). I revisited some of those desserts this week, particularly various fruits poached in wine, and I still find them delightful. I find that I’m sometimes negligent about eating fruit in the colder months, but not when I have some wine-poached pears, bananas or prunes in the refrigerator. I am as likely to stir the fruit, with its luscious syrup, into my morning yogurt as to eat it for dessert, andthe compotes are good keepers. Early spring is an in-between time for fruit. Stone fruits aren’t ready yet and it’s not really apple, pear or citrus season either, though all of those fall-winter fruits are still available. I poached pears in red wine and bananas in white wine, and used dried fruits for two of my compotes, prunes poached in red wine and a dried-fruit compote to which I also added a fresh apple and pear. For the last compote of the week I combined blood oranges and pink grapefruit in arefreshing citrus-caramel syrup, and topped the fruit with pomegranate seeds. Even if my friend’s kids wouldn’t agree, this was definitely dessert. Bananas Poached in Vanilla-Scented Chardonnay Summary:Don’t overcook the bananas in this easy dish, and you’ll be rewarded with a fragrant, delicious dessert. I am usually not one forbananas in desserts, but this, if you’re careful not to overcook the bananas, is heavenly. Years ago, in the early days of my career as a vegetarian caterer, I made it often; it was one of my most requested desserts. These days I’m as likely to spoon some of the bananas with their fragrant syrup into a bowl of morning yogurt as I am to serve it after a meal.