Burnt Ends

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Prepare the rub: Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and mix thoroughly. Use immediately or store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.

2. Step 2

   Make the burnt ends: Remove the brisket point from the refrigerator. If it has not already been trimmed, it will likely still have a thick, uneven layer of fat on one side and ragged edges. (If it has been trimmed, proceed to Step 3.) Trim the brisket while it is still cold, when the fat is firm and easiest to cut. Place it on a large cutting board with the layer of fat (called a fat cap) facing up. Using a sharp knife (preferably a boning or slicing knife), hold the blade at a shallow angle and shave off thin layers until the fat cap is about ¼ inch thick. This will leave enough fat to baste the meat during cooking. Trim away any edges that are thinner than ½ inch, which will dry out.

3. Step 3

   Stir together the mustard and Worcestershire, then spread the mixture in a thin, even layer all over the meat. Season generously with the spice rub, applying a lighter coat to the underside and then a heavier one to the fat-cap top, pressing to adhere. Let the brisket rest on a rack at room temperature for 1 to 3 hours, or, ideally, refrigerate, uncovered, overnight.

4. Step 4

   Prepare for smoking: If using a smoker, proceed to Step 8. If using a charcoal grill, spread a thin layer of unlit briquettes over one-third of the bottom grate. Light a quarter chimney of briquettes. When they are glowing, pour them over the unlit coals. Place a disposable foil pan under the cool side of the grill to catch any drippings. Set the cooking grate in place and cover with the lid, positioning the top vent over the cool side, setting the bottom vent half open and the top vent three-quarters open. Allow the temperature to stabilize between 225 and 250 degrees, adjusting the vents in small increments as needed, opening them slightly to raise the temperature and narrowing them to lower it. Give the grill 10 to 15 minutes to respond to each adjustment before making further changes.

5. Step 5

   Once the temperature is stable, set the brisket fat-side-up on the cool side of the grill. Add a wood chunk to the hot coals and close the lid immediately, so the wood smolders rather than burns, producing a steady stream of clean smoke. Open the lid as rarely and quickly as possible to maintain steady heat and airflow. Smoke the brisket until the internal temperature reaches 120 degrees, about 3 hours.

6. Step 6

   Raise the grill temperature to 250 to 275 degrees by opening the top and bottom vents or, if necessary, adding several more hot coals. Once the brisket reaches 140 degrees, usually after 2½ to 3 more hours, begin spritzing or brushing with apple juice every hour or so. Continue cooking until the brisket reaches 160 degrees, about 3 hours longer. Give it a final spritz, then wrap it tightly in unwaxed butcher paper (preferred) or heavy-duty foil (if necessary) and return to the grill. Add another chunk of wood only when the previous one has burned down and the smoke has thinned, and do not add any more after the first 6 hours.

7. Step 7

   Raise the temperature slightly to 275 to 300 degrees, once again opening the vents or adding just a few coals, and cook until the brisket reaches 200 degrees, about 3 hours more. A 5- to 7-pound point usually takes 7 to 9 hours in total, though variations in temperature can shorten or lengthen the cook by several hours.

8. Step 8

   If using a smoker, follow the same progression: Cook at 225 to 250 degrees until the brisket reaches 120 degrees, about 3 hours. Increase to 250 to 275 degrees and spritz with apple juice every hour or so once the brisket passes 140 degrees, cooking until it reaches 160 degrees, about 3 hours longer. Wrap tightly in paper or foil, return to the smoker, and continue at 275 to 300 degrees until the brisket reaches 200 degrees, about 3 hours more.

9. Step 9

   When the brisket is done cooking, remove it from the heat and let it rest, wrapped at room temperature, for 30 minutes. While the brisket rests, heat the oven to 150 degrees (or the lowest temperature in your oven). After the rest, place the wrapped brisket in the low oven and hold it there for at least 2 and up to 4 hours. (Holding the brisket at a low temperature gives the collagen more time to break down and the juices time to redistribute, ensuring even tenderness from bark to center.)

10. Step 10

    Unwrap the brisket, slice it with the grain into 1-inch slabs, then cut it crosswise into 1-inch cubes. Transfer the cubes to a large tray, casserole dish or bowl. Combine the barbecue sauce with ½ cup warm water in a bowl or measuring cup, then pour it over the cubes and toss gently to coat. Serve immediately, with extra sauce on the side.