Sweet Chili Baby Back Ribs

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Prepare the heavenly seasoning: Toast the coriander in a medium skillet over medium heat, shaking often, until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Let cool slightly, then pulse in a spice grinder or grind with a mortar and pestle until mostly pulverized, leaving a few coarse flecks for texture.

2. Step 2

   Combine the ground coriander with the remaining ingredients in a large bowl. Break up any brown sugar lumps with your fingers and stir until the color looks uniform. (Seasoning makes about 1½ cups and can be stored in an airtight container for up to several months.)

3. Step 3

   Prepare the ribs: If you can see the membrane on your ribs — it’s a thin, shiny layer of connective tissue that runs over the back of the ribs, covering the bones — you’ll want to trim it. If not, you can proceed to Step 4. To remove it, slip the tip of a butter knife or spoon handle under the membrane and over one of the middle bones to loosen it. Once you’ve lifted a flap, grab it with a paper towel (for grip) and pull steadily. It should come off in one piece, though sometimes it tears, and you’ll need to peel it off in sections. Pat the ribs dry.

4. Step 4

   Season ribs generously with the heavenly seasoning, using about ¼ cup per rack (you will have extra, see Tip) and let them sit at room temperature while you heat the smoker.

5. Step 5

   Prepare for smoking: If using a charcoal grill, spread a thin layer of unlit briquettes over one-third of the bottom grate. Light a quarter chimney of briquettes, and when glowing, pour them over the unlit coals to create an indirect heat source. Place a foil pan under the cool side of the grill to catch any drippings. Set the cooking grate in place, cover with the lid, positioning the top vent over the cool side and beginning with the bottom vent half open and the top vent three-quarters open. Allow the temperature to settle between 225 and 250 degrees, adjusting the vents in small increments as needed, opening them slightly to raise the temperature and narrowing them to lower it. Give the grill 10 to 15 minutes to respond to each adjustment before making further changes.

6. Step 6

   Once the temperature is stable, place the ribs bone-side-down on the cool side of the grill. Add a wood chunk to the hot coals and close the lid immediately, so the wood smolders rather than burns, producing a steady stream of clean smoke. Add another wood chunk only when the previous one has burned down and the smoke has thinned, and do not add any more after the first 3 hours. Open the lid as rarely and quickly as possible to maintain steady heat and airflow.

7. Step 7

   While the ribs cook, prepare the chile glaze: Place the chiles in a heatproof bowl. Heat about 2 cups of water to just below a boil and pour it over the chiles. Place a small plate on top to keep them submerged and let them soak until fully pliable, 25 to 30 minutes. Reserve the soaking liquid.

8. Step 8

   Combine ½ cup water with the palm sugar, granulated sugar, brown sugar, apple cider vinegar and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, then lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook for 15 minutes.

9. Step 9

   Transfer the softened chiles to a blender along with the garlic. Add enough of the soaking liquid to move the blades, starting with ½ cup and adding more as needed. Blend until mostly smooth, then scrape the mixture into the simmering syrup. Simmer for another 15 minutes.

10. Step 10

    Stir in the tamarind concentrate, fish sauce and crushed red pepper. Continue simmering, stirring occasionally, until the glaze thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, 5 to 10 minutes.

11. Step 11

    Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Transfer the glaze to an airtight container and refrigerate. The glaze makes about 2 cups and will keep for at least 1 month.

12. Step 12

    After the ribs have smoked for 3 hours, wrap each rack tightly in butcher paper or heavy-duty foil and return them to the grill, bone-side-down, for 1 more hour, or until the ribs reach 195 degrees. Carefully unwrap the ribs, brush with a light coat of the glaze, and return them to the grill. Continue smoking for 1 more hour, applying glaze again at the 20-minute and 40-minute marks.

13. Step 13

    If using a smoker: Follow the same progression. Cook at 225 to 250 degrees for the first 3 hours, then wrap tightly in butcher paper or foil and continue cooking at the same temperature for 1 to 1½ hours, meat-side down. Once the ribs reach 195 degrees, unwrap them, brush with a light coat of the glaze, and return to the smoker. Continue cooking for 1 more hour, applying glaze again at the 20-minute and 40-minute marks.

14. Step 14

    The ribs are ready when the glaze has caramelized, a probe slides in with little resistance, and the bones peek out by about ¼ inch. The final internal temperature should be about 200 degrees. Rest 10 minutes, then slice ribs between the bones and serve.