French Fisherman Stew (La Chaudrée)

Updated Nov. 11, 2025

French Fisherman Stew (La Chaudrée)
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.
Total Time
About 1 hour
Prep Time
25 minutes
Cook Time
30 minutes
Rating
5(54)
Comments
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On the North Atlantic coast of France, back in the day, this would be a meal made by fishermen, with whatever was left after selling the choice fish. This could mean very small soup fish or off cuts from trimming, maybe a few mussels, whatever they had. With a bottle of wine and a few herbs, they could quickly create a tasty fish stew. It became known as “la chaudrée,” so named for the iron pot it cooked in, called a chaudière. From France it went to Nova Scotia, and by the time it reached the East Coast it was called chowder. Still quite popular in France, most modern recipes call for four types of fish, a small cuttlefish and some kind of bivalve. This version simplifies things slightly, calling for firm rockfish, tender cod, mussels and squid. Crisp buttery croutons are de rigueur for many.

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Ingredients

Yield:4 to 6 servings
  • 3tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 3small leeks, white and tender green parts, halved and sliced into ½-inch pieces, rinsed and drained
  • Salt and black pepper
  • 4garlic cloves, minced
  • ½bottle dry white wine
  • Several thyme sprigs, parsley sprigs and a bay leaf, tied together
  • ½baguette, cut crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices
  • 4tablespoons unsalted butter, barely melted
  • ¾pound rockfish or snapper, cut into 1-inch chunks
  • ¾pound cod or flounder, cut into 1-inch chunks
  • 1pound mussels, scrubbed
  • ½pound calamari, in half-inch rings, plus chopped tentacles
  • Crème fraîche, for garnish (optional)
  • Zest of 1 lemon, for garnish
  • ½ cup roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish 
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

477 calories; 19 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 8 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 3 grams sugars; 39 grams protein; 899 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat oven to 400 degrees.

  2. Step 2

    Set a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Cover the bottom of the pot with the olive oil. Add leeks, and season with salt and pepper, then cook until softened, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic.

  3. Step 3

    Add wine and bouquet garni of thyme, parsley and bay. Turn heat to high and let simmer to reduce wine by half, about 5 minutes. Add 6 cups water, and bring to a boil.

  4. Step 4

    As water comes to a boil, lay baguette slices on top of a baking sheet in one layer. Paint the tops of each slice with butter. Turn slices over and repeat. Bake until golden, about 10 minutes. Now, they are croutons. Set aside.

  5. Step 5

    Season the fish chunks generously with salt and pepper, then add to the pot. Turn heat down to a brisk simmer. Cook fish until firm and opaque, 3 to 5 minutes. Add mussels and simmer until open, another 3 to 5 minutes, then add calamari and cook for 2 more minutes. Taste broth and adjust.

  6. Step 6

    Divide fish and shellfish among individual bowls, then ladle broth into each. Add a tablespoon of optional crème fraîche to each.

  7. Step 7

    Mix lemon zest and parsley together, then sprinkle generously into each bowl. Serve with croutons on top or to the side.

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Ratings

5 out of 5
54 user ratings
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Comments

I've been a recreational fisherman for 40 years, and cook my catches, this recipe has some issues in my opinion: 1 - Use fish stock > fish bouillon > clam broth instead of water, in that order of preference. 2 - The fish should be cut larger than 1X1" - it WILL break. 3 - The fish does not need 10 minutes of cook time. Add fish; as soon as the broth returns to a boil add the mussels and COVER the pot. When they open in around 3-4 minutes then add the calamari for 60-90 seconds.

My favorite grocery story in a Downeast Maine town sells "chowder mix" -- the trimmings from whatever fresh fish they are selling that day. Cod, haddock, salmon, halibut, whatever. And it's several dollars per pound cheaper than the whole cuts. I make chowder often and love that scrappy, affordable mix. When scallops are (rarely) affordable, I get a few of those and add them, too.

If you have the time and don't mind "butchering" the fish yourself, along with the unused portion of the leeks, use the heads and bones to make a fish stock instead of using water. This will add a ton of flavor.

I followed this recipe as directed but also incorporated the comment to use fish broth and cooked the fish for less time...I was so disappointed. The fish fell apart, the broth was bland...what a mess. It sounded so good.

Fennel: yes. And SAFFRON

Don't underestimate the add-in of creme fraiche (as suggested); it really elevates the dish with a subtle creaminess. I used some heavy cream gone to sour which I regularly use for creme fraiche.

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