Cinnamon Sugar Crullers

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Cook the dough thoroughly: In a small saucepan, combine the milk, water, butter, sugar and salt. Bring the mixture to a lively simmer over medium-high heat, stirring once or twice with a wooden spoon to melt the butter. When you see the mixture starting to bubble, reduce the heat to medium. Add the flour all at once and stir gently for a few seconds to bring the dough together, then stir vigorously and continuously, using the spoon to beat the dough against the sides of the saucepan to encourage steam to release, until the dough is slightly shiny and noticeably firmer and dryer than it was at the beginning, about 4 minutes. 

2. Step 2

   Beat in the eggs: Scrape the dough into a large mixing bowl (or the bowl of a stand mixer) and let it sit, stirring occasionally, until cool enough to touch. Meanwhile, beat the egg white and two of the whole eggs in a separate small bowl until smooth. Add a third of the beaten egg mixture to the dough, then beat with an electric mixer (or the paddle attachment in the stand mixer) on medium speed until the dough has absorbed the egg (it will still be very thick). Add the remaining egg mixture in two additions, beating until smooth after each addition. Beat the last remaining whole egg in the same small bowl and add about half to the dough, then beat thoroughly until the dough is smooth and glossy.

3. Step 3

   Test the consistency: Test the dough consistency, as it might not need the remainder of the egg (whether it does will depend on how much moisture you cooked off, as well as the absorbency of your flour and the size of your eggs): Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a flexible spatula to ensure the dough is evenly mixed, then scoop up a big dollop and let it fall off the spatula. If it refuses to fall, or if it falls in a single mass without leaving a trail, it’s too thick — beat in the remaining egg. The final consistency should be loose enough to leave a trail hanging off the spatula (often in a “V” shape) but thick enough that it doesn’t form a thin sheet that light can pass through. Additionally, when you drag the tines of a fork across the surface of the dough, leaving score marks, it may relax slightly but should firmly hold the marks. If the dough seems too loose to hold its shape, scrape it into a mound in the center of the bowl, cover with plastic, pressing it down directly on the surface, and refrigerate until cold (this will help it firm up), 30 to 60 minutes. 

4. Step 4

   Transfer to a pastry bag and pipe the crullers: Scrape the batter into a large pastry bag fitted with an extra-large open star tip. Push the dough toward the tip, doing your best to eliminate air pockets, then twist the bag to close and set aside. Cut 10 (4-inch) squares of parchment paper. Arrange the squares on your work surface and brush lightly with oil. Working on a single square of parchment, pipe a ring of dough measuring about 3½ inches across with a wide hole in the center, overlapping the dough slightly where the ends meet. Repeat with the remaining squares until you’ve used all the dough (you might get one more or fewer than 10, depending on how wide and how thickly you piped them). Let the rings sit uncovered at room temperature for 15 minutes.

5. Step 5

   Meanwhile, make the cinnamon-sugar: In a medium bowl, toss together the sugar, cinnamon, and a pinch of salt to combine, then set aside.

6. Step 6

   Heat the oil: Clip a deep-fry thermometer to the side of a medium Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed saucepan and pour in the oil until it reaches between one-third and halfway up the sides, but no higher (if you have any remaining oil, save it for another use). Heat the oil over medium-high heat until it reaches 325 degrees, then reduce the heat to medium and continue to heat the oil until it registers 350 degrees on the thermometer. While it’s heating, line a large sheet pan with paper towels and set a wire rack on top, then place it next to the stovetop.

7. Step 7

   Fry the crullers: When the oil is at 350 degrees, slide a metal spatula underneath a square of parchment paper and transfer the ring of dough carefully into the oil, parchment and all. After a few seconds, the cruller should bob to the surface, then use a pair of tongs to flip it over, ridged side-down, and gently peel away the parchment paper (discard the parchment). Repeat with 2 or 3 more crullers, adding only as many as can comfortably fit in the pot with some room to swim around. Fry the crullers until the first side is deep golden brown, about 2 minutes, then turn gently and fry until the second side is deep golden brown, another 2 minutes or so. Transfer the crullers as they finish frying to the wire rack, let sit until cool enough to handle, then place one at a time inside the bowl with the cinnamon-sugar and turn several times to coat. Transfer back to the wire rack. Repeat the frying and coating process with the remaining crullers, working in two or three more batches and letting them cool on the wire rack. Serve within a couple of hours.